The Current Drug of Choice.

I can still well recall when cafe coffee was deemed by most to be something of an abomination, something probably bought partially concealed within a cumbersome glass jar. It was something that was, I'd learned to presume, more to be endured than enjoyed. 'Twas curiously granular in texture, produced to resemble nowt more appealing than crumbled sun-baked earth. The odour that would then have been liberated, upon a swift twist of the lid and consequent puncturing of a foil seal- was there a seal way back then?- seemed selected entirely in order to repel those of a curious bent. Either that or else to firmly consolidate a mistrust amongst the more discerning consumer. Adding boiling water simply intensified its repellant qualities, to the point of inducing mild nausea. It therefore ushered the vast majority of then-beverage-seekers into the far greater camp of tea-drinkers. Not that tea, with its meagre dribble of milk- and frequently stewed to the colour of discarded engine oil- faired a great deal better.

Instant coffee, back in the day, was consequently deemed to be very much a no-go zone. Tea, even at its slicky worst, was marginally the more prudent choice, from within that extremely limited market. Should one have been preparing the beverage of choice at home, where milk might not have issued forth as if still rationed, tea was invariably a run-away winner! As for those mysteriously still opting for the 'lesser' preference of coffee, one would naturally have presumed a severely compromised pallet, perhaps brought about through the misadventures of smoking. 

Thanks to max_thinks_sees

It wasn't until many years later, having finally fledged the nest, that I was even made aware of the concept of 'real coffee', a fallback term that I still occasionally use today. Any first, and highly tentative tastings would have been undertaken entirely with minimal expectations, perhaps more through accepted youthful challenge than with any genuine hope of reward. Perhaps I had then been seduced by other new-to-the-pallet and more exotic flavours, perhaps the task had been approached as if through the illusory veil of an alcoholic stupor. I can no longer rightfully recall, but I suspect that some form of curry would have featured in the proceedings. Either way it was undoubtedly the case that the British menu was teetering very much upon the cusp of a new dawn. And, thank Christ for that one would have been fully justified in concluding!

Who could resist such temptations? I certainly couldn't. 

Several decades later we find ourselves with very different expectations, regarding both the far wider selection of global foods and the often mind-boggling variety of available beverages. For those of us who now partake of the occasional coffee it is probably fair to write that a seriously rank cup is almost unheard of, perhaps with the notable exception of that served at certain service stations. Cafe coffee these days, invariably, widely reflects the tastes of a far more discerning clientele.  

This written, it would be only just to point out that coffee supped in comfort and the right atmosphere might illicit a far more favourable reaction than that supped in less sumptuous environs. But, in so far as this blog entry is judging- and it sort of is- it is the coffee that ultimately counts and outweighs all other considerations. Coffee, as many of us now know, possesses such alchemic qualities as to justify such outrageous claims.

So it befalls me to comment upon my encounters with the delicacy that is coffee, as undertaken in my cycling exploits on and around the North Norfolk Coast. Please note that it is not here my intention to damn any cafe or other establishment, rather to highlight one or two particularly outstanding providers. If it is below mentioned then I would claim it is worthy of your patronage, especially if you happen to be cycling, perhaps even worthy of a minor adjustment to your route. 

It goes without saying (or typing) that coffee chains have actively been avoided, unless you count any National Trust outlet. Thankfully the big names (Starbucks, Costa, Cafe Nero) don't seem to feature, outside of Kings Lynn or Norwich. 
   

Thanks also to antwerpenR            

Titchwell RSPB Visitors' Centre Tearoom. Should the weather be kind enough you may wish to sit outside and watch wild birds massing at the feeders provided. For the bird enthusiast this is more rewarding during the winter, what with the occasional Brambling dropping in. The preference of the non-birder might well be to sup inside. *** 

The Victoria, Holham. Staff may well claim that this establishment offers the best cup of coffee on the North Coast and it is rather good, but is it really the best? ****

Wells Deli. There are just a few, quite cramped seats inside, squashed up against the window, that look out onto the harbour. But often supping outside might be the better preference anyway. ****

Blakeney Seafront Caravan (at the edge of the car park). I'm not actually sure what this place calls itself, indeed it may occasionally change hands, but the coffee remains reliably consistent. I don't think this establishment is open right through the winter, maybe because there really is no alternative to sitting outside. Two points to note are that:
1. The wonderful collection of exotic wildfowl that used to provide much interest, whilst partaking of one's coffee, had all but been removed(?) the last time I was there.
2. Blakeney Parish Council, in the interests of no-one whatsoever, seems intent on pretending to serve the local community, by occasionally putting this plot out to tender. Hence, there may be, an unexpected change of face, making it all the more difficult for the souls in charge of this outlet to establish a reputation. *** 

Wiveton Hall Cafe (fruit farm), Blakeney. Easily missed! It is signposted but it's far enough away from the main road to be tucked out of sight. This, of course, is part of its charm and appeal. The food is also excellent, if a touch on the expensive side. Sadly not open through the winter months. ***** Competing strongly, during the summer, for the best cup of coffee on the north coast. The second image is of my elbow beside a cup of Wiveton Hall Coffee.

Picnic Fayre (Delicatessen), Cley. This place will certainly seduce you with its wonderful selection of foodstuffs. It serves, possibly, the smallest cup of coffee along the coast. Not always what you might have hoped for, when you might be gagging for a cup. **

Cley Marshes NWT Visitor Centre. Offers a fantastic panorama across the marshes. You may even get to sup your coffee from behind one of the telescopes set up for bird-watching enthusiasts. ****

The Cafe Racer, Salthouse. Coffee is provided from the back of a small van, often (but not always) parked almost on the beach at Salthouse. Obviously this coffee will have to be consumed in the open air. ***

I couldn't resist this mug either.

Byfords, Holt. Another delicatessen that will absolutely seduce you with its offerings, not least of which are its huge and wonderful coffees. Perhaps the largest coffees along, or relatively close to, the coast. *****

Wiveton Bell. A good option if you also fancy a plate of chips. Coffeewise it has the awkward challenge of being sandwiched between Wiveton Hall Cafe and The Art Cafe at Glandford, both of which are within easy cycling distance (but neither offers chips). ***

The Art Cafe, Glandford. Definitely not to be cycled past without due consideration, as I had mistakenly done far too many times before I chanced upon this establishment. A delightful place, with quite possibly the best coffee in the region of the north coast. *****

The Red Lion, Drayton. Strictly speaking, nowhere near the north coast, but I've ended up here on several occasions and its conveniently situated along The Marriot's Way, thus enabling one to cycle there without undue exposure to heavy traffic, always a major bonus. ****

The Old Reading Room, Tea Room and Gallery. Such a mouthful, don't you think? I've  only ended up here once, but I'd certainly stop again. Unusually, they don't provide lattes or cappuccinos but will attempt an approximation of the former with "a milky coffee." **

The Village Store, Weybourne. Outside seating is fairly adjacent to the road, but the road's never that busy. I think there may be just a few seats inside, along the window. Certainly one of the coast's best coffees, that I've yet encountered. One can also avail oneself of a loyalty card, thus every ninth coffee will be 'free.' *****

Clementines Cafe, West Runton. This friendly family unit will go out of their way to accommodate all manner of dietary requirements. They even serve gluten-free fish and chips once a week, but this may require ringing and thus planning ahead. ***

The Turret Tearoom, Felbrigg Hall. This is the one National trust stop that I have visited. Being National Trust the traffic is never going to impinge upon your coffee moment. ***

Poppylands Tearooms, Horsey. Hugely generous portions of food and a massive panoramic window, from which you might conceivably be lucky enough to see Common Cranes. I haven't, yet! I also think this establishment closes, except for at weekends, during the winter months. ****

Horsey Shop and Tea Room. This is the wooden hut-type place, beside Horsey Windmill. Sometimes there is no alternative to sitting outside and, again, I'm not sure whether it's open through the winter. From this place I have seen Common Cranes, albeit somewhat distantly. ***

Winterton-on-Sea Beach Cafe. This cafe is situated at the edge of the overpriced- aren't they all?- beach car park. Much like its rival, Poppylands, this establishment closes, except for weekends, during the winter. Strictly speaking, we're drifting round to the East Coast now. ***

Obviously I realise that I've missed out more than a few alternatives, but one cannot be expected to comment upon places that one has not visited, it just wouldn't be fair! And not a chain outlet in sight! 

The best of coffees might even deter the rant...